Lions, Tigers, and Bears, Oh My!

Today we went on a safari in Akagera National Park on the eastern border of the country. Though we didn't see any lions, tigers, or bears, we did see lots of other fauna.

There were tons of impala (sp). They look a lot like deer. We also saw Tope, similar to antelope. When we arrived at a giant lake, the name of which is escaping me, we were fortunate enough to see several hippopotamus that were surfacing for air. There was one baby on its mother's back. There were also many Marabout Storks, probably the ugliest bird you'll ever see, but they are enormous and must have at least a 6-foot wing span. It was incredible to watch them take off.

As we were getting back in the bus, Jonah cried out, "Oh my God! Look at that big monkey!" We all turned to see and there, sure enough, was a baboon. We went on to see many of them, and other monkeys, throughout the rest of our safari. I was upset, though, because the first baboon was being fed by fisherman that live in the park. They threw carrots close to the bus so that baboon would come close to us and 'pose.' It's ironic that our first baboon sighting was in the only village in the park and that it was being fed by other humans in order to please us. Oh well. And I almost forgot to mention, the first animals we spotted were 3 giraffes. They were so majestic and beautiful and were well camouflaged.

After our safari, we went to lunch at the lodge in the park. Can we say WESTERN!? It was a little overwhelming. It was a beautiful building. They served us sandwiches and fruit by the gorgeous pool. Baboons and monkeys ran freely along the perimeter of the grounds. I think many in our group were relieved to be back in a setting so consistent with what we know in the States. It was certainly relaxing and I enjoyed a nap on one of the lounge chairs. (We left at 4:45 this morning!) However, I always feel uncomfortable in these settings.

The experience in this lodge is a far cry from the experience of this country's citizens. Anyone who stays there does not get to see the real Rwanda. And I don't know if this is a bad thing or not. After all, it does generate some local jobs, but most of the money goes to its Arab owners in Dubai. But largely, I don't think it's appropriate to come to a country and remain removed from the local reality, culture, population and instead limit yourself to the beautiful views and luxurious experience of a hotel owned by outsiders. It just doesn't seem right.

After our 2 hour break at the lodge, we went to Paul Farmer's Partners in Health hospital that is located just near the hotel. It was spectacular and uplifting to see this hospital and health center, especially after the public hospital we visited in Kigali. The facilities are beautiful and the care is good. While touring the wards, we actually saw nurses, several of them, tending to the patients. We were not aware of their presence at the public hospital. Paul Farmer is known for his program that is largely dependent on community health workers in each village area and then a more central health center and hospital. I don't remember all the numbers and statistics the country director gave us on our tour, but I understood that this model is working. They also provide more comprehensive care. For example, for mothers that are HIV+, they are provided with formula to feed their infants and a pot and kerosene so they can boil their water. It was a great experience. My conclusion is that, generally speaking, it is better to be poor in the village than in the big city. At least that would be the case in this province. Maybe that's just my privileged self speaking, admiring the calm, simple life found in the village and not recognizing the hard work that lifestyle requires, but that's the impression I have.

After that we came home, though we were treated to a visit to our bus driver's family's home to see the cow he received for his wedding. It was a beautiful cow. It was very nice of them to welcome us all into their compound.

The ride to and from the park was spectacular. Rwanda is a beautiful country! Our ride to the park was unforgettable. We slept in the dark bus until the rising sun illuminated our surroundings. It suddenly appeared beyond the hills, a glowing ball of orange fire. It gave light to the villagers already out and about taking care of their daily activities and affairs. People biked and walked up and down the road, often carrying a heavy load; small children waved to us; farmers tended to their fields.

The ride home was equally as beautiful with a gorgeous sunset. The late afternoon sun gave the hills and valleys a rich glow. The region is speckled with villages; banana trees and terraced farms cover the rest of the land. Tall tropical trees dominate the hilltops. The banana tree leaves were silhouetted against the sky, which changed from orange to pink to yellow.

I hope you can picture it, but words just don't do the scenes justice. I hope to share my pictures with you some day.