Mbour and Mbam -- Another adventure

After my week in Mbam, I returned to Dakar. I filled my days visiting friends and former colleagues, doing laundy, and relaxing.

However, I wasn't able to stay in Dakar long before my love for the village lifestyle pulled me back. In true Hannah-fashion, I tried to pack way too much into a short amount of time. (With reference to my father, the apple doesn't fall far from the tree.) A family friend of ours has family in Mbour, a resort town 1.5 hours out of Dakar popular amongst tourists for its beautiful beaches. I'd never been and decided this was the time. August 15 is a big holiday in Senegal. It celebrates Mary's ascension, I think. Anyway, one town, Joal-Fadiouth (a Catholic stronghold) is known for its celebration. Beach parties by day and club parties by night. I was told this was a holiday I shouldn't miss. But I also intended to try and get back to Mbam one last time. They also had a charged program for the holiday.

Wednesday night, I decided I would go to Mbour in the morning, spend the day at the beach and then catch the bus to Mbam when it passed through the town at 3:30pm. There I would spend the night and then catch transit on the afternoon of the 15th to Joal. But of course, nothing ever goes quite as planned. I got a late start from Dakar on Thursday morning and the traffic was terrible. To make matters worse my station wagon got in a small accident when it scraped against a black car leaving a large white stripe on the side. We all got out of the car and all the passengers made the conversation between the two drivers their business as well. We worsened the traffic conditions as the two cars took up 1.5 lanes, creating a bottle neck effect around the accident. Finally we were on the road again and I arrived in Mbour at 1pm. But I couldn't go straight to the beach. I ate lunch with the family and then had just enough time to go see the beach before I needed to leave to catch the bus. But when I called the driver, he told me it would be impossible for me to have a spot on the bus. It was packed full (some people stood for the 6 hour drive) because of the holiday.

So I spent the night in Mbour longing to be in Mbam. Many of my friends had returned to the village for the holiday and I was sad not to be with them. The next morning I decided that my time would be better spent in Mbam in a place and with people that I know and love, rather than at a huge party. The other American, Cait, living at the house in Dakar came to join me in Mbour and from there we caught a minibus to a town called Fatick. From there we hired a cab to take us to the ferry. This stretch of the road is terrible -- some stretches paved, others not, and the largest potholes I've ever seen. We missed the ferry, but then chipped in to hire a special ferry. The man with the car took us the rest of the way to Mbam. It's not easy getting there without the daily bus.

The family was surprised and delighted to see us. I'd left it with my mother the day before that I would not be able to make it back before leaving Dakar. I was really glad to be there again. Cait and I went straight to the beach. The river bank beach in Mbam is one of my favorite places in the world. It is calm, open, serene and beautiful. We sought refuge from the rain in a fishing village on our walk back.

After outdoor showers, we had a delicious dinner at the house and then enjoyed 3 rounds of attaya (tea). Finally, around 11:30pm, we went with the older kids at the house to the traditional Serere music performance. It includes guitars, drums, gourds and singing. The songs start slow and eventually become very fast. People moved by the music run into the center of circle of spectators and dance. Men and women respond to one another in their dance moves. Women will run out and put their headscarf around the best dancer in the circle. Cait and I gave the dance a try two times. It's certainly not easy, but it's fun.

The next morning after 2 hours of sleep, we caught the bus back to Dakar. After a nap and lunch, Cait, Vince and I went to a hip-hop concert on a beach. A popular artist named Didier Awadi was performing. Friends, music, and the beach, a perfect combination. After dinner and another nap, Cait, Abdou, Malick, Vince, and I went to a soiree at a friend's house. We danced on his rooftop, lit by a full moon, until 6 in the morning. What's not to love about this place! As we walked home, older men also returned home, but from their morning prayers at the mosque.

It was a packed weekend. My plan didn't work at all as I'd hoped. I never got to see the celebration in Joal-Fadiouth, but next time I say. It was good to experience Mbour, and I was thrilled to be able to go back to Mbam one more time. I needed to get my fix before heading back to my American life.

(Continue reading the next post for a description of the week I spent in Mbam.)